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Babeldaob
and
Downtown
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One day, we rented a car and decided to
drive as far north on the island of Babeldaob as possible.
Babeldaob is the second largest island in the area, second
to Guam, so we thought it may take more time to drive across
it than the 15 minutes Koror had taken us. We had already
been on Babeldaob since it has the airport, but we thought
we were in for an adventure since the rental car contract
stated that there was a $500 charge for taking the car out
of the states of Koror and Airai. This map is courtesy of
the Palau Tourist Bureau.
Here's what we found on Babeldaob...
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If you don't take the left turn to the airport,
you will come to some bombed-out Japanese administrative buildings.
There is a rusty Japanese tank between them. No, that is not the
original barrel sticking out of the turret. The road does not continue
on so much longer past this point, though. It continues past a modern
bai, or meeting house, and then dead-ends at a marina. I did
not find the old wooden bai that my Lonely Planet mentioned. |
|
We went to have a look at the airport in the
daylight. I might have seen smaller, but I can't tell you where.
Be sure to have US $20 in cash or travelers checks when you leave
for the airport tax. They don't accept plastic or other countries'
currencies.
If you take the left turn to the airport,
you'll find the road turns to dirt just past it. Babeldaob is
quite hilly, so you go up, down, around, and over hills on a narrow,
rust-red road firmed with crushed coral in places. You get a few
fleeting views of the ocean from the tops of hills, but unfortunately
most of the road is not so interesting.
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Although we had seen a map that
showed a road going all the way up to the northern tip of the
island, we found that the road ended, of all things, on a reclaimed
mangrove flat that had been filled in with crushed coral. My guess
was that, since we had just passed a big coral pile, the round
reclaimed area was a place for the dump trucks to turn around
and that the crushed coral was for surfacing newly created road
through the jungle. Anyway, it was the end of the road, so it
seemed that if the car was going out of the state of Airai, it
would have to be on a boat.
Here's a coral pile with a front-end loader
on top, and, yes, I'm scraping when I start adding pictures like
this. No pun intended.
|
| Back in Koror on another day, our hotel gave
us a ride in the hotel van down to the Palau International Coral
Reef Center (http://www.picrc.org).
To get there, turn off the main road next to the Palau Supreme Court
and go straight down to the water's edge. As an aquarium, it's a
bit on the modest side, but quite nice. If you didn't have a camera
on your dive or snorkel trips you can take "underwater"
pictures there, as we did. Thanks for the free "taxi"
ride, Arnold. |
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< |
You will often see Palau spelled in its
traditional way, "Belau," here. We walked by this sign
for the Belau National Museum and decided to go in, as I was looking
to learn a little of its history. The national museum only really
has two display rooms, and one is devoted entirely to Palaun art,
especially wood carving, so there's precious little about history.
If you would like to look at traditional wood carvings and storyboards,
I recommend the Belau National Museum.
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On the first page I showed you a section of
the main road across Koror. The biggest shopping center on it
is called the WCTC, and it has a big supermarket downstairs and
a Ben Franklin's upstairs. Although I remember Ben Frankiln's
as a dime store in the States, it's about the closest you'll come
to a department store in Palau to my knowledge.
Palau does not have any traffic lights at
all. OK, there are two, but they only flash yellow and there is
a traffic cop directing traffic below them in the daytime. It's
pretty neat driving around a place with no traffic lights in this
day and age.
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< |
Can't tell you why, but there are a lot more
pink buildings in Palau than you see in other parts of the world.
Maybe that color's "coral," not pink? That's a store
and karaoke bar, not a private house.
|
| So what do houses look like in Palau? Well,
there's a great variety of houses, indicating various income levels.
I don't know why I took this picture, but it's on the lower end
of the scale, with generous use of corrugated tin. A lot of the
houses had chickens in the yard, and you would have to be in France
on a good day to find a higher concentration of dogs than in Palau.
I would hate to be a cat there. |
 |
 |
Palau doesn't seem to have much industry beyond
tourism, or maybe they keep it well hidden. There is some mining,
and a local brewery, although most empty cans I found strewn around
seemed to be Budweiser. Although there may not be much industrial
development, there are tons of grocery and convenience stores,
like this one on the main road not far from our hotel.
|
| Most of Koror is still, well, jungle. Here
we decided to take a short cut back to the main road from the museum,
and you can see that even a "block"or two from the main
road it's all coconut and banana trees. |
 |
If you're still with me here at
the end of page three, you must be pretty serious about Palau. OK,
so here are a few things you may want to know:
1. Like Guam, the currency used in Palau is the US dollar. It was
pretty strange for me to be on another third-world beach vacation
and not be spending brightly colored bills of various sizes.
2. The electricity is the same as the US and the plugs are the same,
so no reason to bring your plug converter set if you have electical
appliances that work in the US or Japan.
3. The grocery stores are stocked with 90% American products, but
you will find some Japanese brands and a smattering of Chinese /
Southeast Asian products. I saw Oriental pears and Western pears
stocked next to each other at the WCTC supermarket - the first time
I think I've seen that. There are some nice wood carvings for sale,
but I can't say Palau is much of a shopping destination for the
ladies.
4. On Palau cars drive on the right, but nearly all vehicles there
are Japanese and about half are right-hand drive, as they all are
in Japan. My rent-a-car was left-hand drive, which helped to keep
me on the correct side of the road, but I almost opened the door
and sat in the lap of the driver of a taxi I hailed. (The windows
were mirrored and I couldn't see which side the driver was on.)
5. February and March are the driest months. In fact, it had been
so dry before we got there that water was being turned off from
9:00 pm to 6:00 am to conserve.
6. Don't expect topless sunbathing as you find on Bali or in Thailand.
You can decide whether this is a relief or disappointment . . .
7. Prices in Palau are about the same as in Japan or the US. Don't
think it's going to be like Indonesia or the Philippines. Palau
is not a backpacker's hangout. Most tourists we saw were American
retirees or young, childless Japanese couples. |
| So what's the final word on Palau? Well, if
you are a diver or snorkeler, you can certainly do that to your
heart's content in Palau. The Rock Islands are a sight to behold,
but diving or snorkeling trips out in them will set you back about
$85 a day. The Palauan people, every one we met, were very nice.
Otherwise, Palau is a fairly ordinary third-world country that's
not much of a bargain. We enjoyed our stay there and you will, too,
but go there after visiting some of the other places I've written
about on this site. Thailand would be a good start. |
 |

Arrival
and Hotels (page one) | Snorkeling
and Diving (page two) | Glenn's
Home Page

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Koror, Palau
March 27, 2002
© Glennsworld, 2002 All rights reserved.
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