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In September 2002, I (I'm Glenn, by the
way, in case you just dropped in off the Web) went to Saigon, Vietnam.
Yes, it's true that the name of the city was changed to Ho Chi Minh
City after the war, but it is still referred to as Saigon, at least
the downtown area, almost everywhere. If you buy Hard Rock Cafe T-shirts,
etc, you can bet that they'll say Saigon and not HCMC. Ho Chi Minh City
is quite a mouthful, after all.
Anyway, I'd seen a few pictures of Saigon on the news and such, just
as you have, but I wasn't really sure what to expect. I didn't do a
whole lot of research before I went; I didn't even buy a guidebook,
to tell the truth. This is mainly because I was only planning on being
there for 48 hours, and I was going there largely to say I'd been there.
Therefore, if you're looking for seasoned commentary by a Saigon insider,
you'll need to go back to Google and click the next link. If you just
want to see some snaps and first impressions by someone like you who
just went to look around, you've come to the right place.
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There are several hints around town that tip you off to the fact
that Vietnam was once a French colony, and the most obvious is the
Hotel d' Ville, pictured here. It's right in downtown Saigon at
the end of, guess what, a typically wide French boulevard. In front
of the Hotel d' Ville is a statue of Uncle Ho, of course. It is
a favorite place for tourists to have their pictures taken.
One thing that I learned on the trip was the reason why Ho Chi
Minh is referred to as "Uncle Ho" and not "Father
Ho." It is because he never married and had no children.
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My first impression of Saigon was that it is much more modern and
upscale than I had expected. I distinctly feel that only a very
small part of the population shares any of the wealth associated
with that upscale veneer, meaning that it's inhabited by a lot of
dirt poor people, but it feels quite upscale all the same. I had
just flown in from Phnom Penh, and it was definitely several rungs
up the civilization ladder from the city I had just flown out of.
Saigon is located on the banks of the Saigon River, and down by
the waterfront, down where several streets angle into each other
to form this little triangular park, they have this statue of....sorry,
don't know who he is. Doesn't look like our favorite uncle, though.
As you can see in the background, Saigon has a skyline. I don't
think those building have been there more than a couple years, though.
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This picture was taken across the street
from the one above. I can't say that the waterfront is very extensive,
but as you can see there are a few places where you could get a table
and watch the river traffic. |
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My friend Dave in Phnom Penh had told me that
the War Crimes Museum (formerly the American War Crimes Museum)
was a must see. I'll pass on to you that it really is worth a visit.
Out in the yard surrounding it you will find captured tanks, helicopters,
jets, and this howitzer. The theme of the museum is generally how
the valiant, pure-hearted, and incredibly resourceful heroes of
the people were able to ultimately drive out the ruthless, heathen,
imperialist-bastard Americans from the homeland. Saigon was liberated,
not overrun, of course. The rhetoric can get pretty thick, but it's
very educational for people who have never questioned concepts such
as the "domino theory" and "making the world safe
for democracy" to hear the same events described in very different
terms.
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After my visit to the museum, I spent
a full day just walking around downtown Saigon, checking out shops
and looking for pictures that might capture the atmosphere. I don't
know that I've done it, but this picture gets some of it.
One thing that I can't capture is the way tourists are constantly
approached by postcard hawkers, T-shirt sellers, coconut milk vendors,
"cyclo" (bicycle taxi) drivers, moto (motorcycle taxi) drivers,
regular taxi drivers, hostess bar owners, beggars, etc. For the Vietnamese,
"foreigner" = "money," and the vigor of the entrepreneurial
spirit in today's Vietnam can wear on you and harden you. Just after
I took this picture I was trying to frame another shot when a particularly
persistent cyclo driver, and you soon learn to ignore calls from cyclo
drivers, produced a notebook of handwritten testimonials in English
from satisfied prior customers and pushed it in my face. Nice ploy,
one I even considered going for, but he lied to me by saying the Ho
Chi Minh museum I was looking for had been moved. Consequently, you'll
see no pictures from it here today. He also wanted $40 for a trip
to the Cu Chi tunnels (I later went for $6) and laughed when I offered
him fifty cents to take me a few blocks, a fair price in Saigon. My
point? As always, caveat emptor. Those satisfied customers
in the notebook must have been taken for a ride in more ways than
one. |
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Everyone may expect that there be a lot of sidewalk cafes in Saigon,
Vietnam having been colonized by the French and all. Actually, it
goes way beyond that with all manner of business being conducted
on the sidewalks. This is a morning scene with locals having their
breakfast on the sidewalk as ladies in their conical hats walk through
selling newspapers.
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And here is a little lunch
smorgasbord in front of the art shop. Speaking of art, I think the
only other place that I've seen that had such a nice selection of
oil paintings was in Bali. Art may not be the first word that pops
into your head when you hear the word "Vietnam," but for
me, now, it's one of them. |
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I'm not sure how long ago this would have been a picture of bicycle
traffic. How long will it be before Saigon is a gridlock of irate,
honking drivers in personal passenger cars? Again, anybody's guess.
This was taken on a bridge over the Saigon River.
You probably already knew that Vietnam uses the Roman alphabet
- almost. Vietnamese being a tonal language, they've had to add
all kinds of diacritical marks to the five vowels. I guess it works,
but I listened to people speaking Vietnamese and then asked myself
"Could you begin to transcribe that in alphabet?" It would
be a tall task, for sure. Still, they do it.
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Although you can see the high-rises in the background here, the
side streets of course have lots of nice examples of colonial architecture
and are very pleasant. People who have been to Hanoi say that the
whole city is like this, making it more pleasant than Saigon in
general. Maybe I'll get there some day. I hope so.
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On my third day in Vietnam, I took a tour to the
Cu Chi tunnels, as I mentioned above. I got up very early, as I
was taking a group tour and the van had to go around to several
hotels picking people up. I'd read about the tunnels and they sounded
interesting enough, but one of my big motivations for going was
that didn't want to head back home having only flown in, trudged
around the capital, and flown out. Capital cities are always a thing
apart from the country they govern, aren't they? Taking the bus
to the tunnels seemed like a good way to see the countryside. And
that it was. Even better, I turned out to be the last one in the
van, and the guide had me sit in the front seat with the driver
so that he could be in the back with the group telling his tour
guide stories. This suited me fine, as I could crank up the shutter
speed on my camera and take some pictures out the front through
the windshield that way. Getting out of Saigon was the predictable
pandemonium of motorcycles with jungle instincts until the commotion
finally gave way to the tranquility of the countryside. OK, it never
really did, but it looks like it did in the lower shot here to the
right.
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| Before
arriving at the tunnel complex itself, we made a little courtesy stop
at a craft shop where busses take the tourists so that they can rest,
see "real local artisans" ply there trade, and of course
pick out a few souvenirs. |
One of the things that is made in the area is rice
paper. This is not one isolated lady putting on a show for tourists;
there were several operations along the road, and all were drying
rice paper on bamboo in the sun. I didn't see any little souvenir
boxes of rice paper (would it go through my printer?), mainly because
this "paper" is actually the thin, translucent dough that
is used to make Vietnamese "spring rolls." These are similar
to what are called "egg rolls" in the States, except that
Vietnamese spring rolls are not deep fried.
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Once inside the tunnel area, before
you tour the actual tunnels, you are taken to a room where they show
you a short film about the role that the tunnels played in the war
effort, starting in the 40's against the French. They also show you
a map of the area and a cross-section of the tunnels, which looks
not too far removed from an ant farm if you let your imagination go
just a bit. On the wall is this mural of the victorious liberation
of Saigon. I thought it was interesting that the soldier on the tank
was female and that the people clinging to the landing gear of helicopters
that evacuated people off the roof of the Embassy were not included.
If you're old enough to have been watching TV back then, I'm sure
you remember the scene I'm referring to. |
| All gratuitous sarcasm aside now, the
tunnels at Cu Chi are nothing short of amazing. The land in the Cu
Chi area, 60 km. northwest of Saigon, is clay. This allowed the people
to dig a tunnel network without any need for roof support. There are
240 kilometers of underground tunnels on three levels, complete with
kitchens, workshops, hospitals, meeting rooms, booby traps, underwater
entrances, you name it. The unknowing Americans, aiming to block the
Ho Chi Minh trail, parked an army base right on top of the tunnel
network. Then they wondered why they got shot in the back as they
were returning to the base at night. Our guide, pictured here, was
a high-ranking officer in the Southern army and was trained in New
York. He therefore had no reason to idealize or glorify the Viet Cong,
but when you hear the stories of how they dissected unexploded American
bombs to make tank-stopping land mines and used truck tread for sandals,
all this happening underground and behind enemy lines no less, you
can't help but admire them for their courage and resourcefulness.
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OK, back in Saigon, a group of Vietnamese
people sitting on the steps of a government office called out to me.
This time it was not "Sir, where you go?" but instead they
pointed to their child and said "baby, baby, money, one dollar."
I immediately dismissed the idea that they wanted to sell me the child.
Then I thought, sure, they have a toddler in the group, but that doesn't
explain to me why I should give them a dollar as they while away the
afternoon on the steps. I mean, at least they could chase me down
the streets with postcards or coconuts like their entrepreneurial
brethren, right? Still, one hand washes the other, so I gave them
and dollar and they posed for pictures that I wouldn't have gotten
otherwise. Deal. The "baby" didn't like the looks of me
or my camera and immediately hid behind Mom. I played cat and mouse
with him for a while and acted goofy enough to give an otherwise severe-looking
Grandma a good laugh. |
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A
few last words on Vietnam:
1.
Visitors, at least American visitors like me, need a visa
to enter Vietnam. It costs US$35. If you are coming from Cambodia,
it will take 2 days to process. I got mine in Tokyo before
I left and was glad I did.
2. Packages to Vietnam that I've seen can be quite pricey.
It doesn't have to be that way. Basic accommodation (2 twin
beds, A/C, color TV, refrigerator with mini-bar, hot water)
in downtown Saigon only cost me $14 a night. A filling breakfast
of chicken rice soup cost only a dollar. Dinner was maybe
$3.50.
3. Western tourists are badgered by sidewalk salespeople so
much it may wear on you, depending on your level of tolerance
for such things. If you look Asian, you'll be spared.
4. As you walk around at night you will end up walking past
some hostess bars. If you are male, you can expect to get
the hard sell from bar girls - meaning that several will literally
latch on to your arm and try to pull you inside. Working girls
on motorbikes will ride up to you and proposition you, too.
A trick I learned quick is to walk backward when they pull
up to you, as their motorbikes can't go backward.
5. T-shirts on the street can be bought for $2 and ball caps
for $1.
6. Vietnamese coffee is STRONG! (and this is coming from a
guy who likes strong coffee) You can get extra hot water to
dilute it.
7. You can fly between Phnom Penh and Saigon for $60 one-way.
8. Like Cambodia, electricity is 220V, but all receptacles
take both flat and round plugs.
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Saigon is a lot nicer and more developed
than you may think. There are also a lot more tourists already
there than you would expect. I don't suspect the whole country
is like that, though, and more than one person has told me that
they prefer Hanoi to Saigon because it is still more "colonial."
Although I was just there long enough for a taste, I'll be going
back to Vietnam before too long, I believe, the next time with
my family. If you haven't considered Vietnam as a tourist destination,
it may be time.
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October 14, 2002
© Glennsworld, 2002 All rights reserved.
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